The stun gun is an excellent weapon for self-defense. Today it can be bought by any individual who is 18 years old, it is quite legal! The shocker does not require additional documents from the buyer and its use is legal. The stun gun is intended for active defense against robbers and hooligans, but everything is not so simple. The fact is that the law of our country does not allow us, mere mortals, to wear stun guns with a power of more than 3 watts. The voltage of the shocker (arc length) does not matter and is intended only for breaking through clothes, it follows that a shocker with a voltage of several million volts in difficult times can be just a toy ... Really powerful shockers use only organs if you have "police" shocker, you don't have to read this article, but I ask everyone else to warm up the soldering irons and prepare the details for the device.

I present to your attention the design of a stun gun with a power of 7 - 10 watts (depending on the power source), which you can do with your own hands. The design was chosen as the simplest so that even beginners can handle it, the selection of parts and materials is also available to beginners.

The voltage converter is made according to the blocking oscillator circuit on a single transistor, a reverse conduction field effect transistor of the IRF3705 type is used, which allows you to squeeze "all the juice" from the power source, IRFZ44 or IRL3205 transistors can also be used, there is almost no difference. Also, you need a 100 ohm resistor with a power of 0.5-1 watts (I used a 0.25 watt resistor, but I strongly advise against repeating my mistake).

The final and most important element of the converter is a step-up transformer. For the transformer, a core was used from a switching power supply from a DVD player. First, we remove all the old windings from the transformer and wind the new ones. The primary winding contains 12 turns with a tap from the middle, that is, first we wind 6 turns, then we do it, we twist the wire and wind 6 more turns in the same direction on the frame, the diameter of the primary winding wire is 0.5 - 0.8 mm. After that, we isolate the primary winding with 5 layers of transparent adhesive tape and wind the secondary. Both the primary and secondary windings must be wound in the same direction. The secondary winding contains 600 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.08 - 0.1 mm. But we wind the wire not in bulk, but according to special technology!
Every 50 turns we put insulation with adhesive tape (in 2 layers), so the transformer will be reliably protected from breakdowns in the high-voltage winding. A transformer wound using this technology does not need to be filled, although just in case it can be filled with epoxy. We solder a stranded insulated wire to the terminals of the secondary winding. It is desirable to install the transistor on a small aluminum heat sink.

After the converter is ready, it needs to be tested. To do this, we assemble a circuit without a high-voltage part, there should be a "burning current" at the output of the transformer, if it is, then everything works. Next, you need to solder the voltage multiplier. Ceramic capacitors have a capacity of 4700 picofarads, the capacity is not critical, the main thing is to choose capacitors with a voltage of at least 3 kilovolts. With a decrease in the capacitance of the capacitors, the frequency of the discharges increases, but the power of the shocker decreases, with an increase in capacitance, the frequency of the pulses decreases, in return, the power of the shocker increases. The diodes in the multiplier need high-voltage type KTs106, they can be obtained by breaking the Soviet TV multiplier or simply bought on the radio market.

Next, we connect the multiplier to the converter according to the diagram and turn on the shocker, the arc should be 1 - 2 cm (if you use all the ratings that are indicated in the diagram). The shocker emits loud pops with a frequency of 300 - 350 Hertz.

As a power source, you can use lithium-ion batteries from mobile phones with a capacity of 600 mA or more, it is also possible to use nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 volts, four nickel-metal-hybrid batteries with a capacity of 650 mA were used in my design, due to a powerful field-effect transistor Batteries operate under heavy load (close to short circuit), but nevertheless their capacity is enough for 2 minutes of constant operation of the shocker, and this is a lot for such a compact and powerful stun gun!

Installation - is carried out in any convenient plastic case (fortunately, I had a suitable case at hand from the old Osa stun gun). The high-voltage part of the circuit must be coated with silicone (for reliability). A cut-off fork, nails or a screw will serve as bayonets. The stun gun must be supplemented with a switch and a non-latching button, this is necessary to avoid self-switching in your pocket.

In the end, a few words about the parameters of the shocker - the voltage on the arresters is over 10 kilovolts, the breakdown of clothes is 1.5 - 2 cm, the average power is 7 watts, the shocker is also supplemented with a built-in charger and an LED flashlight, the charger circuit is taken from a Chinese LED flashlight. The switch has three positions, the LED must be connected to the power source through a 10 Ohm resistor (so as not to burn the LED).

This shocker turned out to be quite compact due to the multiplier and is quite suitable for our beloved ladies. Compared to factory-made stun guns that are sold in stores, our stun gun is much more powerful, and if you still want to increase the power, you can increase the power to 7.2 volts, because. A lot also depends on the capacity of the batteries.

List of radio elements

Designation	Type	Denomination	Quantity	Note	Shop	My notepad
	MOSFET transistor	IRL3705N	1	IRFZ44 or IRL3205		To notepad
	Diode	KTs106B	2			To notepad
	Resistor	100 ohm	1	0.5-1 Watt		To notepad
	Capacitor	4700pF 5kV	2			To notepad
SW1	Switch		1

What is the main thing in a person's life, besides family happiness, a secure existence and the realization of one's own ambitions? Naturally, personal security and self-confidence. Of course, it’s good to be sure when you are under two meters tall, have an oblique fathom in your shoulders, and you are fluent. And what about those who do not have such wonderful physical data. To do this, they came up with one very effective device, called a stun gun. Today we will try to assemble a stun gun with our own hands. It turns out that there is nothing complicated in this self-defense tool. You can make a stun gun with a minimum knowledge of electrical engineering, but a maximum of diligence, however, as with the creation of any other makeshift weapons. I want to warn you right away that I did not assemble this device myself, I found the assembly instructions on the Internet and posted it on the site purely for informational purposes. So I can't vouch for the accuracy of the information. If someone finds errors in the device, please unsubscribe in the comments, we will fix it.

So for electroshock device assembly, we will need:

1. converter
2. capacitor
3. arrester
4. transformer

The principle of operation is quite simple: an igniting capacitor gives a discharge to a pair of arrester-transformer and a combat capacitor, as a result, a rather powerful electric pulse is obtained at the output.

Let's start with the manufacture of the converter transformer. We need a B22 core made of 2000NM ferrite, on which we need to wind a thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. This device is similar to a sewing machine bobbin and can be purchased at an electrical supply store.

We wind until 1.5 millimeters remain to the edge. You should get five, six layers of winding. Between each layer you need to lay electrical tape. Then we completely wrap everything with electrical tape in a couple of layers and make the winding with a thicker wire with a diameter of 0.9 mm. Somewhere on the third layer we make a layering and wind the remaining turns. We connect the bobbin covers and wrap everything again with electrical tape.

Now we are waiting for the manufacture of a more complex part - the output transformer. We buy a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20 mm in a plumbing store. Cut off a piece five centimeters long. Now we need to make a frame out of it, for this we insert a bolt suitable for the diameter of the tube into the drill, wind tape around it and put it into the tube. In place of the cutter, you can use a metal file or sharpened steel plastic. We machine grooves two millimeters deep and wide, but carefully so as not to cut through the tube. Then with a knife we ​​cut a groove along the entire tube with a width of two, three millimeters.

Now we need a ferrite rod with a diameter of ten millimeters and a length of fifty millimeters. It can be taken from the line-scan transformer of an old TV. We break off the pieces we need from it and glue them together to get a rod of the right size. You can process it to a round state on sandpaper. However, you can buy ferrite rings in the store and glue them together with superglue.

We wrap the rod with a layer of electrical tape and wind a wire of 0.9 millimeters on it, stepping back from the edges of 5-10 millimeters. Be sure to wind it in the same direction as on the tube sections. Next, we isolate it with electrical tape, but so that the rod with the winding can freely enter the tube. We insert the rod into the tube from the side where there is no wiring output, and connect the two windings together. The result should be three outputs: the end from the first winding, the common connected end and the HV output. The winding phases must be in the same direction. Next, we put the transformer in a cardboard box and fill it with paraffin.

The figure below shows a diagram of a stun gun.

The ignition capacitor is charged through the bridge, and at the same time the combat capacitor is charged through the diodes. Diodes are needed to separate the capacitor circuit into two different ones.All parts used in the circuit can be bought at the store and placed on a 40X45 mm board.

You will need:

1. transistors IRFZ24; IRL2505
2. Resistors
3. 3300 peak capacitor
4. batteries 6 pieces NicD size 1/2 AA

Now let's start the assembly process.The case of the stun gun can be made of cardboard.We insert the “insides” of the shocker there and fill it with epoxy.

I did not describe in detail the entire assembly process, because everything that is needed is indicated in the diagram above. Those who can understand such diagrams and hold a soldering iron in their hands will easily cope with the task without these "valuable" instructions, those who do not ... well, they are unlikely to succeedmake your own stun gunand it is better to buy it in the store.

After the epoxy has hardened, you can proceed to testing a homemade stun gun on annoying neighbors (joke)

The problem of ensuring the safety and protection of oneself and one's loved ones from encroachments on life or property worries every person. There are many ways and means for self-defense, but not all of them are available for purchase and use.

The best weapon for protection and self-defense is electric shock, which does not require a license and registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. The stun gun can be purchased by anyone after reaching the age of 18, and due to its compact size and light weight, the stun gun can be carried in a pocket or in a women's purse.

A typical stun gun consists of several components - a converter (1), a capacitor (2), an arrester (3) and a transformer (4). You can see everything in the picture below. It also works easily. The capacitor is periodically discharged to the transformer, producing a spark discharge at its output. It would seem very simple, but as practice has shown, there is a hidden trick (fulminat) and it is hidden in this very transformer. At home, it is almost impossible to make it transmit the impulse correctly and be effective enough, this requires special materials, equipment, and most importantly, calculations that are kept in great secret - you will not find anything on the net on this topic. In addition, the transformer has purely design limitations that do not allow us to transmit powerful single impulses through it, which we need.

We decided to cheat and came up with how to make a stun gun with your own hands 3 times easier while maintaining all the power. The action is as follows: the ignition capacitor works on the arrester-transformer system similarly to a stun gun, as a result of which a high-voltage pulse appears at its output, penetrating several centimeters of air. And at this moment, the main, combat capacitor comes into play, which through the formed ionized channel beats all its joules directly. The point here is that at the moment of formation of an electric discharge, a conductive channel appears, which essentially replaces a piece of wire. Thus, using a high voltage, we supply a charge to the object with virtually no loss, which allows us to reduce the dimensions, and the actual power of the device, which is necessary to achieve the wild anger of its action.

Let's start making the shocker with the most complex part - transformers. As practice has shown, difficulties with the repetition of shockers usually lie precisely in winding - in the process, many lose their nerves and the structure is subjected to premature breaking with a hammer :-D Therefore, we went the way of industry, where, as you know, they proceed from what is easier to do in large quantities and without problems. At the same time, the process becomes almost entertainment, but do not forget about attentiveness - this does not stop the transformer from being the most important part of the device.

CONVERTER TRANSFORMER

You will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. Let me explain armor does not mean bulletproof :-) but just such a design closed on all sides in which only holes for wires are left. It consists of two small cups between which the bobbin is located almost like in a sewing machine :-)

Only you need to wind it not with threads, but with a thin enameled wire with a diameter of about 0.1 mm, you can get it from a Chinese alarm clock. We take this wire and wind it on the bobbin, not counting the turns, until there is about 1.5mm of free space left.

For best results, you need to wind in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. Thus, you should get 5-6 layers. If you are lucky enough to get the PELSHO wire, just wind it in bulk, without any insulation, periodically dropping a little machine oil. It is useful to attach thin stranded leads to the ends of the wire for greater reliability.

Next, we isolate all this in 1-2 layers with electrical tape and wind 6 turns of a thicker wire, something in the region of 0.7-0.9mm, with a tap from the middle, i.e. on the 3rd turn we stop the process and make a retraction (twisting), then wind the remaining 3 turns. All this will not be superfluous to fix with superglue or something else. At the end, we glue the cups together, or simply wrap them with electrical tape if we are not sure about the quality of the winding.

OUTPUT TRANSFORMER

Trained and enough. Now the really tricky part. Although looking ahead, I’ll say that THIS is just entertainment compared to what I had to do before ;-) Because winding a traditional layered transformer at home and from the first time, and even to work, WILL NOT WORK. Instead of layers, our transformer will have sections.

First you need to get a tube of polypropylene with a diameter of 20mm. They are sold in a plumbing store as a replacement for conventional water pipes. It looks like a white taka with a thick wall, pure plastic. There is a very similar but metal-plastic - will not work. We need a piece of only 5-6cm in length.

Through a complex process, this piece must become a sectional frame. This is done as follows - we take a drill, into which we clamp a drill or a bolt close in diameter so that it fits into the tube, winding electrical tape around it, we make sure that the tube sits tightly and evenly. Next, we take a cutter that can be made from a steel plate, emery cloth, etc., and begin to grind grooves, estimating so as not to cut through the pipe. As a result, sections should be approximately 2x2 mm i.e. 2 mm deep and wide. To make them smoother after sharpening, you can sharpen a little with a needle file. Then we take a stationery paper knife and make an incision 2-3mm wide along the entire frame, look more carefully because you can cut through the wall of the pipe, which is fraught with rework. This completes the preparation.

Because then the fun begins. This time we need a wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm. It can be in the power supply, starters, etc.. This wire must be wound on all sections of our frame, without being too zealous so that the wire does not go beyond the section, but it is better that it does not reach a little. Before winding, a small stranded wire is again soldered to the beginning of the wire, which must be well fixed with glue so that it does not come off in which case. The end of the wire is not yet connected to anything.

Now you need to find a ferrite rod with a diameter of about 10mm and a length of about 50. We need a 2000NM ferrite, a horizontal-scan transformer from a domestic TV is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to remove everything superfluous from it. Then carefully split it as shown in the picture. If the line is made of small halves, then they can be glued together with superglue to get a longer rod. To process ferrite, you need to use a sharpener (emery wheel) to end up with a round rod with a diameter of about 10mm and a length of about 50. The process is very difficult, during it you can feel like a coal mine worker in full :-D Instead of a rod, you can use a lot of small ferite rings glued together - it’s easier for some to buy them, and they are also made from ferrite 2000NM :-)

The rod must be wrapped with a layer of electrical tape and wound with 20 turns of 0.8 wire - the one that we used in the first transformer, stretching the winding to its entire length, only stepping back 5-10 mm along the edges and fix the wire with threads or the same electrical tape. WINDING THE WIRE IS NECESSARY IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS ON THE SECTIONS, for example, clockwise or counter-clockwise as you like ;-) After that, we isolate everything in several layers, as far as the inner diameter of the tube allows, so that it enters tightly but without effort.

After the preparatory and winding process, we do the following trick. We insert the rod inside the frame, and from the side where the HV-winding ends (where there is no output in the form of wiring) WE CONNECT 2 WINDINGS TOGETHER !!! Thus, the transformer will have 3 outputs instead of the usual 4: end from the 1st winding, a common point and an HV output. ATTENTION! watch the phasing (winding in the same direction) otherwise the shocker will not work.

At the end of the process, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. To do this, melt the paraffin in a tin can, but you do not need to heat it, otherwise the hot paraffin will damage the frame and all the work will go down the drain. The conclusions must first be sealed with some kind of glue so that the paraffin does not leak out :-) It is best to carry out the process in two stages. First, fill with paraffin, then put it in front of a fan heater or on a radiator so that it warms up for 10-15 minutes, so all air bubbles will float up and go away. Boxes need to be made with a HEIGHT MARKET since after cooling, the paraffin shrinks a lot. You can remove the excess with a knife. This technology is almost as good as the vacuum process in the factory, but can be used in the kitchen. If you have the opportunity to borrow an industrial vacuum pump, then instead of paraffin, it is better to use epoxy - it is more reliable.

It's time to see the stun gun circuit. It is very simple and I think will not cause problems with understanding. The igniting conder is charged through the bridge, and at the same time, the combat one is charged through additional diodes. These diodes are needed so that the capacitors do not create one circuit, otherwise you would have to wind a separate winding of the trance and the second bridge, which is very stressful - you will have to isolate the trance no worse than the output and the dimensions will be larger. Some difference in charge time, which in theory is present with this option, can be safely ignored, because. in practice it simply does not exist. This implies only one limitation, the capacitors must be the same. Which doesn't really bother us at all.

All parts are not particularly scarce, they can be freely ordered or simply bought at the market. the size of the shocker and the quality of its work depend on them.

Everything else you can put whatever comes to hand. Almost any transistor is suitable for the converter, from IRFZ24 to IRL2505. Resistors are also non-critical and can differ in one direction or another. to protect the inverter. When using fairly powerful transistors (IRFZ44 +), it can be omitted.

There is one interesting feature in the operation of this stun gun circuit that some may have already noticed. Namely, when the contacts are short-circuited, for example, when both electrodes are in direct contact with the skin, the correct operation of the shocker is disrupted, because. the combat conder does not have time to charge to the desired voltage. In this case, this jamb is not as important as in multiplying shockers, because. the voltage on the capacitor is only about 1000 volts, which is not enough even to break through a thin T-shirt. Therefore, for simplicity and cheapening of the design, this fact was not paid attention to. But still, if you are going to go to war with nudists :-D THEN YOU NEED TO PUT A SECOND ARRESTER in series with any of the output electrodes of the shocker!

Now a little about the constructive composition of the device. The entire scheme of the stun gun, using the specified parts, is placed on a board measuring 40 * 45mm. Batteries are 6 pieces of NicD size 1/2 AA, i.e. twice as short as conventional finger-type, with a capacity of 300 mAh. Which corresponds to a power of about 15 watts. They are sold as spares for radiotelephones in the form of blocks of 3 or 4 pieces. The cost is in the region of hundreds of wooden ones per block ;-) Thus, the entire shocker can be made the size of a pack of cigarettes.

The assembly sequence is as follows. To begin with, we refuse to pay, Because. anyone in the process will have to solder certain parts and it will inevitably go there ... We take a radiator, for example, from a computer power supply unit and put transistors on it. The radiator must either have insulating gaskets, or then you need 2 separate radiators so that they do not touch each other .. We fasten them there and solder everything else directly on weight. Thus, the initial layout should look like a bunch of junk on your table :-) Don't forget to fix the HV leads at the right distance (no more than 15mm for a start) otherwise the transformer and everything else behind it will also burn out.

We turn on the device. Power must be taken from those batteries that will later go to the device, all sorts of power supplies and other sources will not work! In principle, the shocker does not require settings and should work immediately. The question is how will it work. With these batteries, the discharge frequency is about 35 hertz. If it is less, there are two options, either the transformer is wound badly, or you used other transistors and you need to select resistances of 330 ohms.

We look at the datasheet for the trans you need, look for the line "INPUT CAPACITANCE" there, the larger the number, the less resistance should be and vice versa. For example, for IRFZ44 it can be 1k, and for IRL2505 it can be no more than 240 ohms. By selection, we achieve the optimal discharge frequency ... Next, we begin to spread the output contacts to the estimated distance that you need (for example, I have 25mm). If everything is ok, we breed another centimeter! and in this state we do the test for 5 seconds. If everything is ok, we return the previous distance. This stock should be present to anyone, because. air breakdown depends on many factors such as humidity, pressure, etc., so if the distance is "at the limit" at one fine moment the whole structure will go into oblivion. For the same reason, 2 diodes are used everywhere instead of one, although with one everything (seemingly) works fine.

If everything worked as it should, you can safely solder the parts into the board and proceed to the next step...

Since we cannot stamp plastic parts like in a factory, and few people have the opportunity to use a factory case, one thing remains - EPOXY. The process is certainly painstaking, but it has a number of its advantages. The result is a monolithic block that is not afraid of shocks, water ingress, and is absolutely reliable electrically. For the manufacture, you will need the actual epoxy, take a lot of it, thin cardboard from some boxes, a glue gun and some other little things ...

The process begins with cutting out the base from cardboard, i.e. "view from above". For this, it is very convenient to use a notebook sheet on which you first mark out the plan of how and what will be located where, then stick it on cardboard and cut it out ...

Now your task is to glue the base around the perimeter with these strips. The process is quite complex. It is convenient to use long-nosed pliers or tweezers to bend cardboard. Glue must be done from the outside, while making sure the seam is tight.

Arrange all the main parts inside the case to appreciate their internal layout. At this stage, you need to determine where the switch and the start button will be located :-) as well as the socket for charging the battery.

Apply heat shrink. It is very convenient to use it for some recession of protruding elements inside. Please note that after pouring, processing will follow and somewhere 2-3mm will be removed on the sides due to cardboard. Also, heat shrinkage allows you to achieve better tightness - the photo shows that it is closed from the outside (it is enough to squeeze it with tweezers while it is hot). At the same stage, you need to connect all the details to each other and check the operation of the shocker in this state. As combat and protective electrodes, I used aluminum rivets, thicker and thinner, respectively. There is a steel rod inside the aluminum, so soldering shouldn't be a problem, but it's still very convenient to use acid.

Fill in! There is not much to explain here, but keep in mind that epoxy has the ability to penetrate everywhere where it is not needed, so check the tightness before pouring. Have you checked? now again. After that you can start...

processing stage. After 6-8 hours, when the epoxy has set securely, it is still quite soft. At this point, you can cut off the excess with a mounting knife, giving the shocker a comfortable shape to hold in your hand. By doing this, you will not save yourself from the need to do further processing with emery and sandpaper, but you will save a lot of nerve cells ;-) After processing, the body can be coated with some kind of varnish, for example, zapon.

And here is the result! After all, you can be happy looking at such a thing. Now you can bite the protective electrodes to the desired length if you have not already done so, and go!

So, the shocker is made, cracks loudly and makes an impression on others ;-) But how can you really check the degree of his anger? At the beginning, we said that it depends on the current in the pulse that the shocker gives. So we will look for it ;-) Below you see a comparison of the discharge from a conventional ratchet and our device:

It can be seen that the discharge is much thicker, it has a characteristic yellow color and flashes at the edges, which indicates a large current. How big? Let's do a simple test. Take a regular 0.25A mains fuse and place it between the contacts of the shocker so that there is no direct contact. The fuse will blow. This means that the output current exceeds 250mA!!! Compare with fractions of a milliamp in a conventional shocker :-) It is clear that in real conditions, due to the resistance of body tissues, this current will be less, but it will still be TENS OF TIMES higher than the values ​​\u200b\u200bfor ordinary civilian and even police models!

On the network you can find a lot of videos and text materials on manufacturing. The manufacture of most of them requires a lot of money and knowledge. In this article, we will look at how to make one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns for sure. As a result, we get a good means of self-defense.

Let's get acquainted with the video on the manufacture of a stun gun

So, we need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two finger batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take an electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the flyswatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, the power supply, the start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.

Since the factory solution for the location of the button may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can therefore extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button should be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

As contacts, we will use the most common self-tapping screws. When looking for them, you need to make sure that they are as similar as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace finger batteries with rechargeable ones.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor taken from a camera flash, but we will not do this.

Isolate the inside of the box to prevent a short circuit.

It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpectedly attacked person. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can hurt themselves, and a knife or a gun can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.

Therefore, the best option would be, which, by the way, you can make yourself. And today we will tell you how to make ordinary and powerful mini stun guns at home.

Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.

Necessary equipment and raw materials

Here is a list of required materials and parts:

• silicone;
• insulating tape;
• a ferrite rod pulled out of an old radio;
• plastic bag;
• scotch;
• wire;
• wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 mm;
• wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 0.7 mm;
• wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm;
• a ferrite transformer pulled out of a switching power supply of an electronic device;
• fuse;
• battery for power supply;
• diodes, capacitor and resistor for the charger;
• Light-emitting diode;
• switches;
• an old suitable case or plastic for its manufacture.

And now we will learn how to make a homemade stun gun.

Creation technology

High voltage coil

First, we make a high-voltage coil.

1. To do this, we wrap a ferrite rod about five centimeters long with three layers of electrical tape, then fifteen turns of the thinnest wire go.
2. On top - five more layers of electrical tape and six layers of adhesive tape.
3. We cut the plastic bag into strips ten centimeters long and a width corresponding to the length of the coil.
4. Next comes the secondary winding with a thicker wire (from 350 to 400 turns) in the same direction as the primary winding.
5. We isolate each row of wire (from 40 to 50 turns) with polyethylene tapes and five rows of adhesive tape.
6. At the end are two layers of electrical tape and ten layers of tape. Fill the sides with silicone.

converter transformer

Now we make the converter transformer.

• Its basis will be a ferrite transformer, from which you need to remove all the windings and the ferrite frame (you may have to put the part in boiling water for a while).
• We wind the primary winding from a wire 0.8 mm thick (12 turns). The secondary winding is 600 turns (70 turns in a row) with millimeter wire.
• To isolate each row, lay four layers of electrical tape. Having inserted the halves of the ferrite, we fix the structure using electrical tape or adhesive tape.

spark gap and other parts

The next detail is the spark gap.

1. For it, we take the old fuse, remove the tin on its contacts with a hot soldering iron, and pull out the inner wire.
2. We screw the screws on both sides (they should not contact).
3. By changing the gap between them, you can change the frequency of discharges.

We take ready-made batteries:

• lithium-ion (pulled out of a mobile phone),
• nickel-cadmium or lithium polymer.

The latter are very capacious, but they must be bought, and this is expensive.

For the charger, we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of parts can be found on the Web. Charging time will be about three to four hours.

As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting a faulty device. Or glue it from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. Remember that more than three seconds a person should not be affected by a discharge.

Special types of homemade EShU

From a flashlight

So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like the so popular ones, or, for example,?

1. It will take, in fact, only the body of the flashlight - the LED can also be left. This is convenient because there are already batteries inside.
2. Four high-voltage coils and converters pulled out of electric lighters for gas stoves should also be placed there.
3. Spark gaps and a separate switch are added to the circuit.
4. Each transformer has its own two contacts.
5. Arresters are made from steel narrow strips or pieces of paper clips.

We will tell you how to make a stun gun from a battery.

From a battery

This is the easy way. For him you will need:

• battery type "Krona" with a capacity of 9 watts;
• ebonite rod from 30 to 40 centimeters long;
• converting transformer (ready-made, pulled out of the charger or AC adapter);
• insulating tape;
• steel wire;
• push button switch.

We take an ebonite rod and attach two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected with a wire to a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this, you need to press 25 times per second.

The power of the device is small - it can be used more for intimidation, and not for protection.

From a lighter

So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:

• battery operated electric lighter;
• clip;
• glue;
• soldering iron and solder.

We disassemble the lighter, cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them a length of one or two centimeters, cutting with wire cutters. Then we expose their tips and solder pieces of paper clips there. The ends are slightly bent. We fix the whole structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.

The video below will tell you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:

In the form of a pen

You will need:

• a small carnation;
• two lighters (one with a piezoelectric element);
• a handle with a button and a metal clip, having a sufficiently large diameter, containing a piezoelectric element;
• hacksaw for metal;
• glue gun.

1. We disassemble one of the lighters and take out the piezoelectric element.
2. We disassemble the handle, pull out the inner plastic sleeve and cut out its middle part to a length corresponding to the size of the piezoelectric element.
3. We remove the clip and on the side with a heated (second lighter) carnation we make a hole in the upper part of the handle body.
4. With a hacksaw we make an incision for the wire.
5. We put the handle button in place, glue the piezoelectric wire insulation with a thermal gun and glue it to the second part of the plastic inner sleeve.
6. We insert everything into the body of the handle, bring the wire into the hole, then pass it along the sawn groove and clamp it with a metal clip from the handle.
7. We insert the lower part of the sleeve and assemble the handle.
8. Now, when you press the button from the clip, it will shock.

But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. And now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.

From the condenser

We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Earlier, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models, it is a white cylinder.

We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.

We expose the ends opposite to the plug, fasten them to the capacitor contacts and carefully isolate them. That's it. Now, after charging from the network, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it does not bring harm - it only pinches.

The video below will tell you how to make a powerful stun gun at home: